Early Bronco Coyote Swap

A coyote swap is no easy task but well worth the trouble when finished. It's a luxury to have such a reliable, modern drive train that has such effortless power. The first question to ask is, are you starting a full restoration or do you have a bronco that is ready for just a new motor? If it's the latter, you may look at something other than a coyote like an Early 5.0 HO motor from a 89-93 Mustang because these motors fit with very little effort and require no modification to the frame or body. If you decide to go with a coyote make sure you are willing to modify your frame slightly and do some engine compartment sheet metal work.

When doing a coyote swap you need to think about what other areas of your bronco may need to be upgraded to handle the additional power. After deciding on a coyote swap you need to determine the transmission you plan on running with your new motor. The 6R80 6- speed automatic transmission is the most commonly used and is a perfect match with the coyote; however, there are other options like the 4r70w 4-speed auto or even the new 10r80 10-speed auto. With the 6R80, you will need to make sure you purchase a 4wd version that would have been in an F150 with Coyote, same with the 10R80. On the 4R70W, you can get either a 2wd or 4wd version; you just need to make sure it was bolted to a mod motor (Ford 4.6L or 5.4L). If you are more of a manual lover, we would suggest taking a look at the NV4500 5-speed, Tremec 5-speed. Besides the transmission, one should consider upgrading other drive train components to handle the increase in horsepower. The Ford 9” rear end is arguably the greatest differential ever created, but in its stock 28 spline configuration, it leaves room for improvement. Swapping to a 31 spline carrier and axle set is a great start, or if you have a heavy right foot, you may even consider a 35 spline swap. The Dana 20 is a full gear-driven transfer case that is strong for such a small package; however, it's recommended to upgrade to an HD output or, if you want the best, a brand new Atlas t-case is an amazing choice. If you don't plan on running in 4wd often, a Dana 30 is doable, but a Dana 44 is considerably stronger and a much better fit for a coyote-powered bronco, especially when you upgrade to chromoly axles and larger u-joints. Another part that will need upgrading is your drivelines.

A coyote swap is not cheap, and a motor and transmission swap will set you back $10-18K if you are doing the work yourself and probably $5-10K more for a shop to do the install. Compare this to a 302 or 351 with an nv3550 or AOD, and you're looking at $5-10K and a lot easier install. However, a coyote bronco easily increases the value of a bronco by $20K.

There are 3 different versions of the Generations of the coyote motor:

The numbers above are based on the coyote that is in the Mustang when the F150 coyote will have lower numbers for both HP and Torque. The mustang motor is much more desirable for the swap due to its lower intake manifold height and lower profile oil pan, giving you more clearance between the hood and the top of the motor as well as between the differential and oil pan. Also, most aftermarket front drive serpentine setups are designed for the mustang timing chain cover. All crate motors from Ford performance are based on a mustang coyote.

There are also many great companies out there that will sell a complete running take out low-mile engines, transmissions, and wiring harness combinations like Mars Motors, Midway Mustang, Cleveland Power and Performance, plus many more, all costing about $9,500 complete. If you want a new crate motor, Ford Performance dealers sell a few different versions of the Coyote 5.0 starting at $8,500 and going up from there. Along with your new crate engine, you will need a wiring harness and PCM that is sold by authorized Ford Performance dealers; these are referred to as a Control Pack. Ford sells Control Packs for both auto and manual transmission configurations that range between $1800-$2200.

Sourcing the 6R80 or 10R80 is very easy due to the numerous F150s built every year. You are looking for a 4wd 6R80 or 10R80 transmission that came behind a 5.0 coyote in a 2011 and up F150. Start by calling a few of your local wrecking yards as you can usually source a low mileage 6R80 for $500-$1500. 10R80s are more money because of the fact that they are the most recent model. For a 4R70w, you will need a 2wd or 4wd transmission that is a good rebuildable core that has the MOD motor bell housing configuration. Most manual transmissions that are commonly used are available for purchase from Tom's Bronco Parts.

After deciding on a transmission you will need to determine what transfer case you want to use. Like stated earlier, a Dana 20 with a HD output is adequate but an Atlas is a great upgrade for those who want the best, either of these options can be sourced from Tom's Bronco Parts. A T-style Dana 20 with HD output will cost $1300 plus you will also need a twin stick shifter designed for the 6R80-10R80. An Atlas transference will run between $2800-$3300 depending on configuration and will come with cable shifter. Depending on the transfer case you decide you will need adapters to mate them to the transmission and also new cross members and drivelines that can all be sourced from Tom's Bronco Parts.

After you have removed your original engine, transmission, and transfer-case, you will need to remove the two 45° braces that support the front cross brace in the frame. See Image 1. These are removed to allow clearance for the oil filter on the driver side and the A/C compressor on the passenger side. After these are removed, re-weld new 45° braces on the front side of this cross brace; we offer new braces at Tom's, or you can fabricate your own. Also, at this time, if you decide you would like to keep the original starter, you will need to notch the frame where the starter will make contact. Another option is a fully index-able starter that can be sourced from Summit Racing that allows you to clock the starter in a location to avoid interference with the frame.

Another area that will require modification is the passenger wheel well. With the added width of the Coyote motor, you will need to remove 3/4” off the inside of the wheel well, moving it outward towards the coil tower. A good rule of thumb is to move the inner portion of the wheel well out as far as possible without making contact with the coil tower or shock mount. See Image 2. If wanted you can remove the same amount of material from the driver wheel well to gain more space in the engine bay; however, this is not necessary, just allows for easier installation of other components.

• Bell housing kit with slave cylinder #C3980 (Only needed when using Manual Transmission that does not have Ford MOD Motor Bellhousing from the factory)
• 6R80 Crossmember and Rubber Mount #8553
• 6R80 to Dana 20 Adapter kit #8551
• 6R80 to Atlas Transfercase Adapter kit #8551
• T-Style 6R80 Twin Stick for Dana 20 #4115R
• Wheel well inner panels #C1935
• Power steering box spacer plate #C3531
• Coyote Belhousing to engine bolt kit #C3981
• Radiator hose kit #C6343
• Coyote Radiator #C6369
• Coyote fan shroud #C6450
• Coyote front drive kit w/AC #C6483
• Coyote front drive kit w Out/AC #C6485
• Coyote motor mounts #C6498
• Coyote engine hoist brackets #C6499
• Coyote headers Stainless #C6515 (Also available in black Ceramic coat #C6515K or Polished Ceramic Coat #C6515C)
• Oil pressure adapter #C6585
• 23 Gallon EFI Fuel tank with body lift #6199B
• 2” Body lift #6915 (should purchasing standard bushings #6740 as well)
• Hydroboost Power Brake for 4 wheel disc for Coyote #7061
• Coyote heater hoses kit #C6438
• Coyote low profile Oil Pan #C6540

We at Tom's hope this helps you make the decision that is best suited for you. If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to call us at 541-779-1339.